For miniature horse and pony owners, few things compare to the comfort of a barn full of fresh hay. But choosing the right mini horse hay isn’t always simple. Many owners feed what they’ve always used, what their veterinarian recommended, or what’s most affordable and available locally. While these factors matter, pony hay feeding requires extra care—especially for easy keeper miniature horses that are prone to weight gain, metabolic issues, and laminitis. Understanding how different hay types affect your mini’s health and support their workload is one of the most important decisions you can make for their long-term wellbeing.

Ultimately you should be choosing your hay based on what is 

1. Best for your horse taking into consideration any health issues, metabolism (hard or easy keeper), and their workload/activity level.  
2. What is available in your area. Some types of hay can be difficult to get in different areas of the U.S., so choosing the best option in your area will be much easier than trying to source your hay from several states away. 

Once you have determined what you want to feed your horse, then purchase the best quality hay, also known as forage, you can afford. If you have multiple horses with differing needs, you may have to buy different types of hay for each horse. For example, lower calorie grass hay for the overweight pony, and alfalfa/orchard mix for your pregnant mini mare or CDE (combined driving event) miniature driving horse in full training for the marathon. 

Each type of hay has its pros and cons. The following is by no means a complete list of every type of hay/forage, but is a simple overview of the most common hay types available in the United States. 

Grass hay is not just grass. There are several different types of grass hay. It is important to ask the hay producer/seller what type of grass is in the baled hay. Let’s dive into the different types of grass hay.

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Orchard Grass
Orchard grass hay is very common and grown all over the United States. It is considered a high quality grass due to it being higher in protein (10-12%), higher in calorie content and balanced levels of calcium and phosphorus. It is also high in fiber. Horses tend to love it and find it easily digestible due to its soft texture. The downside in feeding orchard grass hay is the higher calorie content for horses that are prone to gain weight easily (aka easy keepers). 
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Timothy
Timothy hay is a popular hay for horses that is primarily grown in the northern states of the U.S. Timothy hay is one of the most digestible of all hays. It is high fiber and low in protein which helps maintain a healthy weight. It may not provide enough energy and nutrients for miniature horses and ponies that are growing, pregnant, lactating or in heavy work. You may need to supplement timothy hay with other types of forage or concentrated feeds to provide the nutrients needed for your horse. Timothy can be more costly and  hard to find depending on where you are located. 

Triticale
Triticale hay is a hybrid of wheat and rye. It can be a suitable forage option for miniature horses, but can have a relatively high non-structural carbohydrate (NSC) content. Triticale does offer a good balance of fiber and moderate protein. It can be a well balanced forage for ponies and minis. Palatability can be an issue for some horses. Be mindful of overfeeding, and pass on this hay for easy keepers that have metabolic issues or issues with laminitis. It is mainly grown in the southern states, California and Midwest, which may make it difficult to find and/or costly if you live in the northern states.

Teff
Teff hay is a popular choice for minis and ponies that are easy keepers, prone to laminitis or have metabolic issues. It is high in fiber and is typically a low NSC forage. Teff also has moderate protein levels and is easily digestible. Some minis and ponies take a little time to take a liking to it, but should eventually find it palatable. You may want to consider a different forage if your pony has a hard time maintaining weight or has extra energy requirements. Teff is grown primarily in the western and southern areas of the U.S. Availability and cost may be an issue depending on where you live.

Fescue
Tall fescue is a cool-season grass common throughout the southeastern United States. Naturally occurring tall fescue can be rough in texture and infected with a fungal endophyte dangerous to pregnant mares. Due to this potential danger, it is NOT RECOMMENDED for pregnant or lactating mares. If the hay is infected with endophytes it can cause issues in pregnant mares, including reduced milk production and potentially cause problems for the foal. If no other hay is available, it's crucial to remove pregnant mares from fescue hay at least 60 days before their due date.  There are some newly developed varieties that have reduced or eliminated toxicity and increased palatability. They offer average protein and can be suitable for miniature horses. However, be sure to research the hay you are considering purchasing to make sure it is safe for your horses. 

Bromegrass
Bromegrass hay is cool-season forage. It is generally highly palatable and digestible for miniature horses and ponies as well as other livestock when properly managed. Its nutritional value can be affected by drought and heat. Some advantages of bromegrass hay are its leafy texture that helps prevent impaction, and a good mineral and protein balance. Protein levels are at least 8%. Bromegrass hay can be an excellent choice if you have multiple species of livestock and want to be able to feed all of them the same forage. Certain varieties are grown along with alfalfa for “alfalfa mix” hay. It is primarily grown across the northern states, and may not be a suitable option for those that live in the south due to available supply and cost.

Bermuda
Bermuda hay is a great option for those miniature horses and ponies needing a low sugar, low starch forage. Bermuda is high in fiber and supports gut health while still low in calories. It provides a good balance of calcium and phosphorus, but can be low in other essential minerals such as copper, selenium, zinc and iodine. Horses eating this hay may require supplements or a hay balancer. This forage is best for easy keepers: ponies, miniature horses, senior horses, and equines with metabolic conditions. An additional consideration is that Bermuda is lower in protein. You will find that this forage is not sufficient for performance horses, growing horses, and pregnant or lactating mares. In that case, it could be mixed with alfalfa to provide a more balanced diet to meet your horse's needs. Bermuda hay is grown in the southern states, so availability and cost may be significant for those who reside in the northern states.

Another type of equine forage is legume hay. Alfalfa is the primary form of legume hay fed to horses. There are other varieties, however they are not commonly fed or suitable for horses.

Alfalfa
Alfalfa is a nutrient dense forage that is rich in protein (17% or more), calcium and vitamin A which supports muscle and growth. It is a great option for performance horses, pregnant/lactating mares, growing and underweight horses. It is often lower in sugar/starch than grass hay. It is highly palatable to horses making it a good choice for picky eaters. The high calcium content may help buffer stomach acid and can be beneficial for horses with or prone to gastric ulcers. Easy keepers may struggle with weight management so you will need to monitor weight changes closely if you decide to feed alfalfa. You may also need to supplement phosphorus due to the high calcium content. Alfalfa is widely available throughout the United States.

Alfalfa Mix
Alfalfa is commonly mixed with grass hay. Alfalfa mix can provide the best of both types of forage. It provides the benefits of alfalfa, and the benefits of the grass variety is grown alongside it. These mixes are variable, so be sure to ask your supplier what type of grass is in the hay if not listed and the approximate percentages of each (i.e. 50/50, 75/25, 80/20, etc.). 

Choosing the right hay for your miniature horse or pony is one of the most important nutrition decisions you will make each year. The best mini horse hay depends on your horse’s metabolism, workload, and any health concerns such as laminitis or metabolic disease. Whether you are managing an easy keeper miniature horse, feeding a performance pony, or supporting a pregnant mare, understanding forage options allows you to make confident, informed choices. Take the time to evaluate local availability, inspect hay quality, and consider testing forage when possible. With the right hay, you can support healthy weight, proper digestion, and long-term soundness in your miniature horse.

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With the summer temperatures on the rise, many horse owners wonder how hot is too hot to work your pony or miniature horse? Horse events such as horse shows, playdays, trail drives or walks, and general training are in full swing during the summer for most people. Read on to learn how to keep your horse happy, healthy and not overheated on the long, hot summer days. 

Why Hot Weather Poses a Risk
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Horses regulate body temperature primarily through sweating. However, when the ambient temperature and/or humidity are both high, sweat evaporates more slowly. This limits the horse’s ability to cool down, and internal body heat can build up rapidly. Without proper precautions, this can lead to serious, potentially life-threatening consequences.

Miniature Horses and Ponies are Different

While mini horses and ponies have the same mechanisms for heat dissipation, their overall smaller size can affect how efficiently they can dissipate heat. Very Small Equines (VSE) as well as ponies are more prone to be overweight. Overweight horses, no matter the size, have a harder time working in the heat and have increased risk for heat related complications such as heat exhaustion. Lastly, miniature horses and ponies tend to have a thicker coat that doesn’t shed as quickly as their larger counterparts. Take into consideration your horse's coat and consider body clipping to keep them comfortable regardless of their workload.  ​

intensity to come up with the feels like temperature. Most weather apps have feels like or heat index information. Mad Barn has a great equine heat index tool that is free to use to determine the heat index for your specific location.  ​

Key Precautions for Exercising in the Heat

If you have decided that it is safe for you and your horse to work in the heat or if it is unavoidable keep the following precautions in mind.

1. Time Activities and Workouts Wisely
   Work your horse early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are cooler and the sun is less intense. Avoid the peak heat hours of 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
   
   
2. Adjust Intensity and Duration
   Scale back exercise intensity during heatwaves. Even a fit horse can struggle with moderate work in extreme heat. Consider shorter sessions or walk-only drives.
   
   
3. Provide Ample Water
   Make sure fresh, clean water is available before, during and after exercise. Contrary to old myths, it’s safe and essential to allow a hot horse to drink. Consider adding salt and/or electrolytes to their feed or an extra bucket of water.
   
   
4. Cool Down Properly
   After exercise, continuously hose your horse down with cool (not ice-cold) water until their temperature approaches normal. Resist the urge to use a sweat scraper to remove the excess water. The latest research shows that continual contact with water is the best for heat conduction and more effective than evaporation in cooling down a horse..
   
   
5. Shade and Ventilation
   Always cool out in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Even if you have to get creative like using a pop up cover. Anything safe is better than nothing. If you are returning your horse to a stall after work and a proper cool down, be sure there is good airflow and consider using fans.

Heat Distress in Horses - Know the SIgns

Recognizing early signs of heat stress can help you take action before the situation worsens. Watch for the following symptoms during or after exercise: 

• Excessive or no sweating
  Paradoxically, both heavy sweating and a sudden lack of sweat can signal distress. Anhidrosis (the inability to sweat) is particularly dangerous.
  
  
• Rapid breathing or panting
  A horse’s respiratory rate should return to normal (8–16 breaths per minute) within 10–15 minutes post-exercise. Prolonged or labored breathing is a red flag.
  
  
• Elevated heart rate
  A resting heart rate for a horse is 28–44 beats per minute. If it remains high well after stopping exercise, the horse may be overheating.
  
  
• Lethargy or weakness
  If your horse seems unusually dull, unsteady, or reluctant to move, stop all activity immediately and begin cooling measures.
  
  
• Dark or tacky gums
  Check your horse’s gum color—it should be moist and pink. Dark red or dry, sticky gums are signs of dehydration or shock.
  
  

Final Thoughts

Every horse handles heat differently. Age, fitness level, coat color, hydration status, and breed can all affect heat tolerance. Monitor your miniature horse or pony closely and err on the side of caution during summer workouts. When in doubt, skip the workout or activity and opt for a light hand-walk, grooming session or hose down instead. Your horse’s health and safety always come first.

Disclaimer: It is always advisable to speak with your veterinarian about your horse’s unique situation. This information is to be considered a guideline of where to begin. It is no way a substitute for medical advice from your veterinarian.

Feeding your miniature horse or pony doesn’t have to be stressful. It can be as simple as good quality hay, clean water, and a salt block. Throw in a treat every now and then, and your little horse should be happy. So how does it go wrong? Why do so many little horse owners have overweight or underweight horses? Read on to get better insight on feeding the average miniature horse or pony.   

The biggest problem I see is portion control – either too much or too little. Every horse, no matter the size, needs to consume 1.5 percent to 2.5 percent of their body weight daily at bare minimum. That is the total of all food sources, whether hay, grain, pasture, hay pellets, beet pulp, hay cubes, etc. Most of that should come from forage, i.e., hay, hay cubes/pellets/pasture. That means that a 300-pound miniature horse needs 4.5 to 6.0 pounds of feed from all sources per day. If the horse doesn’t get much exercise, you probably should start at the low end of 4.5 pounds. If the horse is worked a lot, such as training or conditioning for an event, you will likely need to feed more. Keep in mind that miniature horses and ponies tend to be easy keepers, which means they are great at maximizing their feed. This is why they tend to be overweight more often than underweight. Some miniature horses and ponies do well on pasture, but often they cannot be on pasture 24/7. If you need help with the math, there are many feed calculators online, such as this one from Standley Forage.   

How often does your horse need to be fed? How do you make sure they are getting the correct amount? We feed our horses twice a day which is pretty standard. You can feed more often, such as 3 or 4 times per day if your schedule allows for that. Another option is having hay available in a slow feed net 24/7. Each option has benefits and drawbacks. Each portion of hay for our four horses is weighed. I am not good at eyeballing or estimating weight, which resulted in some chunky horses and wider variations in their weight. Managing our horse’s weight has been much more consistent since I started weighing their feed. It is also nice to be able to tell our veterinarian the exact quantity of hay or grain our horses are getting. This may sound extreme to some, but you got to do what you got to do in the best interest of your herd.

Our pony, Whiskey, who is somewhere around 500 pounds gets 3 pounds of alfalfa-grass mix hay morning and night. In the evening, he gets 1.5 pounds of grain with a hair and coat supplement. Based on his weight, he is getting 1.5 percent of his body weight – the bare minimum. Prior to last summer, we were feeding straight grass hay and alfalfa pellets to supplement the hay. We decided to purchase a mix last summer so we didn’t have to deal with alfalfa pellets. I’m trying to keep our feeding program as simple as I possibly can. After feeding the mixed hay for a month or so at the prior hay’s feed rate of 7 pounds total per day, I saw that he was getting a little pudgy. So, I scaled it back to 6.5 pounds for a few weeks, and he was still a little chunky. I scaled it back another half-pound to 6 pounds hay total per day. He lost some weight and leveled out nicely. He has maintained his weight through our frigid winter very well, so I know I am feeding the right amount. I may have to adjust his feed this spring as we gear up for show season and begins his driving training.

I choose to feed grain because it has extra nutrients that the horse’s may not be getting from just hay alone. Also, it is much easier to feed supplements for the horses that need them in grain. Not all horses need grain. It is perfectly acceptable to not feed grain to your horse. With that said, there are many types of grain and ration balancers out there. Do your research and pick what you think will work for your horse and your budget. You may need to do a little trial and error in finding the best option for your horse. If you decide to change type or add grain to your horses’ diet, start gradually and build up to the full ration. You will need to read the label and find out the recommended feed rate (portion) for your horse’s size. If the recommended amount is 1 cup, then I would start with a half cup for a week followed by the recommended 1 cup the following week.​

It doesn’t happen as much, but some miniature horses and ponies manage to get underweight and need extra feed. You need to feed as much as it takes to maintain a healthy weight on your horse. Winter coats can disguise an underweight horse, so you need to be feeling under that coat to be sure that your horse is maintaining his weight. Also, some may mistake the extra fluffiness as the horse being overweight and cut back their feed causing them to lose weight unintentionally. I cannot stress enough checking through the heavy, thick winter coat at least a couple times a month. Ribs and hip bones should not be obvious. Also, do not make any changes to a horse’s feed ration unless you have thoroughly checked the horse out with your hands. Finally, make any changes gradual so the risk for GI tract upset is lessened.

A final note, be sure your horse has access to plenty of fresh, clean water throughout the day and night. A salt block is good for them, and it encourages water intake which can ward off the dreaded colic or general GI upset. Remember any significant change, such as pasture to hay or grass hay to alfalfa hay, can cause GI upset or colic if made suddenly. Your feeding program can be as simple or complicated as you make it. Be sure you have a reason for why you are feeding a specific hay, grain, ration balancer or supplement. Do some research before making any changes and make changes gradually. If your horse is healthy and happy your feeding program is on the right track. 

​Disclaimer: It is always advisable to speak with your veterinarian about your horse’s unique situation. This information is to be considered a guideline of where to begin. It is no way a substitute for medical or nutritional advice from your veterinarian.​